American Vintage CEO talks newest Los Angeles store with more US locations to come in key cities

The American Vintage team, including French founder and CEO Michaël Azoulay, accompanied by Los Angeles entrepreneur and denim pioneer Albert Dahan, gathered in Venice on Friday evening for the opening of the brand’s third store in California. Despite the gray skies, as is sometimes the case in Venice, disco balls, DJs, and bars lit up the evening, bringing together friends of the brand and several figures from Venice’s French community. 

Initially launched as a wholesale brand in 2005, American Vintage opened its first store in New York in 2021. Around fifteen stores could open in the medium term. FashionNetwork.com spoke with founder and CEO Michael Azoulay and Benjamin Terrasson, American Vintage global head of marketing and communication. 

FashionNetwork.com: What is your relationship with Los Angeles?

Michaël Azoulay: I have had family in Los Angeles since the 1980s. I first came to LA when I was 17; it was the American dream. Then, in 2003, I returned as an entrepreneur. LA helped me open my mind and my eyes. I’ve always found the city inspiring. I love its cool lifestyle, its positive spirit, and the idea that anything is possible. 

FNW: Today you are celebrating the opening of your third store in California, after Malibu and Newport Beach. Was it important for you to set up shop in Venice?

M.A.: I love Venice and Abbot Kinney Boulevard. It reminds me of the Marais in Paris, attracting a very international clientele and many international brands. It’s a great location for a brand like ours. Venice has its own unique lifestyle; you can walk, eat, and have a coffee there. It’s full of life, and that’s what I like about it. 

Benjamin Terrasson: Venice is also a neighborhood undergoing renewal, and today it is home to many wellness brands such as Lululemon, Alo Yoga, and more recently, New Balance. The mindset suits us rather well. 

FNW: You are now embarking on new developments in the United States with the opening of new stores in Palo Alto and Boston. Is this market more difficult to conquer?

M.A.: First, we had to be successful in France and Europe. Three or four years ago, we started returning to the American market, initially through wholesale and online sales. That’s how the brand got started before becoming omnichannel. And in 2021, we opened our first store in New York’s Soho neighborhood, which accelerated our growth in popularity. It’s a big market, where costs are very high and distance can sometimes be a hindrance when you’re a family business. We’re well aware that the market could grow and that our products have a place there, but we’re taking it step by step. 

FNW: Conversely, you’ve been focusing on the Chinese market in recent years…

M.A.: We have been developing the Chinese market for a year-and-a half. We have a partner with whom we have a joint venture, and the partnership is bearing fruit. Growth is very good. Things are moving fast. We are approaching our 30th American Vintage store.

FNW: How many stores do you want to open in the U.S. market?

M.A.: Six or seven openings are planned in the coming weeks and months, notably in Washington, Austin, Chicago, and Miami. A second store is also set to open in New York. But our ambitions remain lower than in the Chinese market. We are aiming for around 15 openings in the medium term, and then we will take stock. 

FNW: Does current U.S. policy force you to be more cautious? 

M.A.: We have a subsidiary company in the U.S., which spares us from tax increases. And most of our production is European. It is more the uncertain climate and sudden change in political choices that makes us more cautious.

FNW: Internationally, which markets are the most effective today?

B.T.: The French market remains number one, followed by Germany, with China in third place. We are performing well in the United Kingdom, the Netherlands, and Benelux. And the U.S. market is growing.

FNW: What’s next for the brand?

B.T.: We are starting to open 100% men’s stores in France. This is an important development for the men’s ready-to-wear market, which already exists in Paris, Marseille, Lille, Lyon, the Netherlands, and London. And in early November, we are launching our sports collection, which will of course be available in the United States. The brand is rooted in the values of sport. For Michaël, “running a business is like running a marathon.” Our company even has a gym with trainers who come in every day, and we have a paddle tennis court where we organize tournaments.

FNW: Can you tell us a bit about the design you chose for the store?

B.T.: From the outset, we decided to have different stores. Our common DNA is zellige tiles, which we use in different colors throughout our network of stores. In Venice, pastel yellow dominates. Our design is inspired by the Mediterranean spirit, with olive trees growing in each of our stores. The furniture has a vintage touch. We also incorporate local culture by favoring local materials and opening our spaces to digitalization with integrated screens.

FNW: The American Vintage branding is now more prominent on certain products. Why is that?

B.T.: The logo does not appear directly on our products, but we use the words “American Vintage” in various ways on graphic and creative patches in our capsule collection celebrating our 20th anniversary and on 20% of the items in our men’s, women’s, and children’s collections. This reflects a desire to evolve, follow trends, and promote the brand more. It helps us communicate better about ourselves and has significantly helped improve our brand awareness.