Paris opening marks milestone in Les Deux’s international expansion

By choosing the Parisian Marais for its first store outside Scandinavia, Danish menswear brand Les Deux has secured more than just a retail outpost. For Andreas von der Heide and Kristoffer Haapanen, the co-founders of the label they launched in 2011, the opening marks a pivotal step in its international expansion. FashionNetwork.com met the thirty-something duo in the hushed ambience of an English-style café on Rue de Poitou, where they outlined an ambitious yet profitable, tightly managed development plan that underscores their commitment to the local.

In the space of ten years, Les Deux has evolved from a simple T-shirt label into a key player in European menswear, with a premium offer blending preppy influences with elegant streetwear. Another advantage that has appealed to independent retailers and department stores alike is its compelling price positioning, which places the brand between labels such as Carhartt WIP and fellow Danes Norse Projects.

Today, Les Deux counts around 1,000 points of sale worldwide, mainly in Europe and North America, and has posted uninterrupted revenue growth for thirteen years. After nearing €70 million in 2024, the brand expects turnover of €80 million in 2025, with further acceleration to come, not least by capitalising on its new Paris flagship.

“We see France, and Paris in particular, as a gateway to the world,” the founders explained. “It’s the most relevant fashion week in the world, with all the key players in the market. Everyone watches what happens in Paris. So it’s also a strategic choice for the international expansion we’re aiming for.”

This opening was no impulse move: the brand patiently laid the groundwork. It first entrusted Paris agency Ace Showroom with building its presence in France. Since 2024, the team led by Éric Obré has overseen the commercial operations of Les Deux’s French subsidiary.

According to the Danish founders, this model, rooted in deep local insight, is crucial to the brand’s development. “We know Les Deux inside out, but we don’t have expertise in the French market,” they explained.

“So we need people to help us who are passionate, who understand us, and who simply want to convey our message.”

The formula appears to be paying off: the brand claims more than 100 retailers in the country and continues to grow.

A presence in department stores

The brand is also carving out a place in department stores in France and abroad. “Maybe it’s because we don’t come from this sector, but we really emphasise sell-through,” argues Haapanen. “We don’t just want to be present; we want to be the brand that genuinely sells in department stores. And for that we have our own recipe. We don’t do consignment agreements, return rights, and all those things. Instead, the money we save by not taking back products and having to liquidate them via off-price channels is tracked and reinvested to strengthen in-store sales drivers.”

An approach the duo say they combine with financial discipline and a focus on profitability. The company grew so quickly that, four years ago, it had to open up its share capital to support its working capital needs.

“The problem with the fashion industry is that as you grow, you have to buy more and more long before you get paid by your customers. In 2020, we brought in a Swedish investment fund. But they have a long-term vision,” explains von der Heide. Verdane, which invests in growth companies valued between €20 million and €150 million, therefore took a minority stake, with management retaining the majority of the capital.

Four years on, the duo are pleased to be able to self-finance their growth, and intend to maintain disciplined, profitable expansion.

“We’re going to do this for the rest of our lives. We’re in no hurry. We want to build a strong brand; we don’t want to be one of those brands that take off and then crash back down. What we want is to build a fashion company on sound values… It’s a people’s business. We look after the people and we look after the business. That’s why we’re pursuing solid, profitable growth,” explains Haapanen, who mentions having already turned down an order worth nearly €6 million that could have jeopardised the company’s long-term viability.

With this in mind, the label intends to be selective about its next moves. Les Deux wants to anchor itself in its key markets of Europe and North America. As for planned stores, each of the two executives has a favourite city: Haapanen has his eye on London, while von der Heide is drawn to New York. In the United States, where Les Deux reports strong growth, the brand now has over 90 points of sale. And Asia? “There is so much potential in Europe and America to tap into… But when China is ready, when the Far East is ready, that will come. We’re in no hurry,” the founders added, who, with a vision of gradually becoming part of the culture in each market, are looking to provide a basketball playground to a Paris neighbourhood, as they have done in Copenhagen and New York.

More than a commercial asset, this Paris opening forms part of a global strategy to create “outposts” rooted in local culture. In this respect, the brand is preparing to open new showrooms in Europe, with a site in London from December 1 and an opening in Amsterdam on January 1.