Sir Paul Smith, at 78, makes his Milan catwalk debut

Don’t try telling Sir Paul Smith you can’t teach an old dog new tricks, after the British designer made his Milan debut with one of his nattiest collections in years.

In the past couple of years, Smith has amassed a significant archive of over 4,600 looks, collecting them all in his hometown of Northampton — a visual memory that played a strong role in his fine collection.

“It’s actually very exciting when one of our young designers on the team who is 20 years old comes back with a look that he thinks is cool and excites him,” beamed Sir Paul after his Saturday afternoon show.

That said, Sir Paul himself was inspired by the very idea of bohemian travel and wandering around foreign markets looking for something exotic to buy.

A key to the collection was Smith riffing on clothes and items he discovered in his formative years. This included a series of great crepe shirts printed with bright birds and flowers, inspired by the banks of the Nile. A trip with his wife, Pauline, to Cairo decades ago led to the Egyptian influences.

In tailoring, he also lightened up the form and fabrics of his suits, reducing shoulder padding and leaving jackets unlined. Nostalgia for flea market finds also inspired some great berets, finished with pins and medallions.

“I’ve been coming to and enjoying Italy all my life, presenting my collections in Pitti at one stage, but never doing a show in Milan. It’s about time,” cackled Smith, who is the proud owner of an estate in Tuscany.

Success has also allowed Smith to become a notable property owner. If his first shop in Northampton was just three square meters, he now owns shops and showrooms throughout the world — from his Paris hôtel particulier to his large show space in Milan.

“I bought this place in 2001 and thought finally I should do something with it!” laughed the ever-sprightly Sir Paul, who dashed down two flights of stairs to take his extended ovation.