Lilian Bérillon, sitting in his office just north of Avignon in the Rhone Valley of France, spoke about a strange truth: many winemakers appear to be oblivious to which vines they buy.
The grapevines from Pépinière Bérillon differ from most others produced in nurseries within France. Bérillon believes that the difference is reflected in the quality of wines produced, the sustainability of vines and—ultimately—in the country’s long term agricultural health.
Lilian Bérillon at his vine nursery near Avignon, Rhone Valley, France
Tom Mullen
“I’m 53 years old and I’ve set up my own business,” he said. “Both my grandfathers were nurserymen. Twenty-five years ago I understood the need to make a decision. Either we make vines for mass viticulture—for those who want to make a lot of grapes and volume of wine—or we make vines for quality agriculture. I wanted to create a different model for the nursery, geared exclusively towards winegrowers who want to make good wine.
“I made the choice to create a nursery for quality viticulture. The special feature in our nursery is that we only make 100% massal selection.”
When vinegrowers replace vines—due to age, health or a decision to change the planted grape variety—they can visit a nursery and purchase vines that are clones, or else they can purchase vines that were grown from their parent vines—known as ‘massal selection.’ Clones have the advantage of having been bred to resist certain diseases; they have the potential disadvantage of being genetically identical. Vines produced via massal selection may be more susceptible to disease, but they are genetically diverse. Beginning in the 1950’s in France (and much of the world) clones have grown to dominate the market.
Bérillon estimates that some 8% of vine nurseries in France account for about 50% of total grapevine production, and that those using massal selection account for approximately 10% or less of all nurseries. He believes that genetic variability inherent in massal selected vines is advantageous because it provides plants with versatility, and that those vines at a young age can produce rich tasting wines.
“The vine became an industry, and a lot of cheap plants had to be produced, ignoring the desire to make great wines. But genetic diversity is indispensable. A property in Châteauneuf-du-Pape grew my plants and other plants next to them for comparison. In 2021 during the freeze, my plants lived, whereas the others had a 30% mortality rate. The vines are more resilient, and the wines are better because the terroir expresses itself.
“Today we see the limit of resistant vine varieties that were supposed to resist the diseases of downy mildew and oidium. Strains of mildew have evolved, and resistant vines catch mildew or other diseases. Any recognized scientist will explain that biodiversity is necessary for resistance. Our objective is not only the quality of juice, but the sustainability of the vine.”
Wax dipped grape vines ready to be boxed and shipped
Tom Mullen
Bérillon is also concerned that some cloned vines appear to have relatively brief life spans of only 25 years, after which many need replacing.
“We need to be able to deliver a vine that can live for 50, 80 or 100 years. And it’s possible.”
He spoke of a professional he works with who assesses Syrah wines produced by two types of vines—cloned and those via massal selection. “He always says that the tragedy of the clone is that it takes over the terroir.”
The implication is that local soil and climate conditions will have less impact on the eventual taste of wine. (This and other related issues are highlighted in a 2024 French documentary [with English subtitles] that provides inputs from various winemakers regarding genetic diversity.)
Bérillon’s customers include prestigious estates such as Château Cheval Blanc, Château Pontet-Canet, Château Rauzan Segla, Chateau Canon and Château Ausone in Bordeaux as well as Château de Beaucastel in Châteauneuf-du-Pape as well as other producers from throughout France.
“We have roughly 200 to 250 customers. But our nursery is quite an atypical model. Here there are 170 hectares [420 acres] and we have about 60 different grape varieties and 23 rootstock varieties—which means we can always meet European demand without too much difficulty.”
The reason there is a difference between their number of vine and rootstock varieties is due to the subterranean phylloxera louse that wiped out huge swaths of the world’s grape vines during the mid 19th century. That problem was solved by grafting disease resistance rootstock onto separate vines that produce grapes. The result is that the underground roots differ from fruit vines above.
This also means that nurseries graft, or attach, rootstocks to vines. Staff at this nursery use the same foot operated grafting equipment designed by Bérillon’s grandfather—each with the number 1950 embossed in metal, the year when the machinery was made. They method used is known as ‘whip and tongue,’ which is renowned to provide secure interlockings. A staff of eight can graft 2,000 vines per day.
Bérillon’s foot operated machines from the 1950’s use the ‘whip and tongue’ grafting method
Tom Mullen
Bérillon’s operation includes all facets of vine production—growing vines and rootstocks as well as grafting and handling sales, marketing and distribution. They pay no traders or subcontractors and train all staff extensively.
“We take a quality approach where everything is done by hand. It’s a bit more expensive.”
These massal selected vines cost about six Euros ($6.90) each to purchase, whereas most commercial cloned vines cost 1.5 Euros ($1.75).
“Investors understand that you have to start with a quality plant,” Bérillon said. “When you sell a bottle for 30, 40 or 200 Euros, that cost is not so big. And the impact of the greater price is, over 50 years, about 12 cents per bottle.”
Bérillon’s business associate, Alain Guiraudon, spoke of surprise that wine producers are not more scrupulous in sourcing their vines and rootstocks.
“When you eat in a gourmet restaurant they bring you the plate and explain what’s on it—and the life of each ingredient on your plate. They explain why a particular market gardener grew that tomato in a certain way. It’s the same with the medical industry—sourcing and traceability is what people talk about. In our society there is a fear of not knowing where products come from.”
Also visiting the nursery that day were winemaker Cécile Dusserre and her daughter Amélie. These fifth and sixth generation female winemakers from Domaine Montvac grows vines in Gigondas and Vacqueyras in the Rhone Valley. Cécile explained how they have worked with Bérillon for years. Amélie spoke of the results.
“We make 11 different wines from 14 different grape varieties. To have the best wines we need to have the best vines, and therefore the best grafts. Even with very young vines just starting to produce, what you have in the glass is already a great wine. It’s rare to have such high quality complexity and diversity so young.”
Later, I walked outdoors with Bérillon and gazed at fields of vines.
“We are creative,” he said. “We have a vision that is modern, but with a mixture of tradition, of safeguarding methods, providing genetic diversity. In other words—common sense in agriculture. This plant nursery is unique because we produce material with genetic richness.
“I’m not a magician. If I deliver plants to a winegrower who doesn’t work his soil, it won’t work. It’s really a job that involves both the nurseryman and the winegrower. We can’t function without each other.
“I have a very personal, special perspective—which is that I love wine. When you love wine, you ask yourself questions for the winegrower, not just for the balance sheet. To make a great wine, you have to start with a good plant. For a great recipe, you need good ingredients.”
