Just when you thought you were about to expire for the lack of a dramatic shows in the current European runway season, along comes Alexandre Mattiussi, and the gods of light and rain, to provide a proper fashion moment.
Alexandre’s location could not have been bettered. One of Paris’s greatest roundabouts, the Place des Victoires, centered around a massive bronze equestrian statue of Louis XIV in all his glory.
Underlining his growing reputation, and CEO Nicolas Santi-Weil’s powers of persuasion, city hall let AMI close off the square for the day. Allowing Mattiussi to set up two wide circles of wooden school chairs for guests, while hundreds of fans gathered at windows in 18th century townhouses overlooking the show. A perfect setting provided the weather was inclement, which it was, just.
Drops of rain speckled shirts and blouses even as the show began. The models circling the statues in tighter circles, before finally gathering at the base of the statue. It’s a beautiful square, once graced by flagship stores for the likes of Mugler, Kenzo and Boss, where AMI now has its showroom and design studios.
Mattiussi may not have the theatrics of certain designers, nor the draping skills of others, but what he does is a brilliant instinct for Parisian chic. Every single look in this co-ed show had pep and élan, in a first-rate fashion display.
Adding to the magic, Maurice Ravel’s “Boléro” boomed out, in a particularly charged version from the Brussels Philharmonic. As the show opened with some great satin redingotes, jaunty blazers and crisp flared pants for women. While for guys, one got frilly checked shirts, suede second-skin overshirts or oversized artists smocks.
Very savvily, Mattiussi conjured up a whole new cocktail dress with a mega side buckle matching the material, whether pale gray suede or faded gold. His skirts were wide and to the knee, sweaters were forgiving, but everything whispered cool, debonair and French.
The mood was upbeat, even before the show, as the crowd applauded in hundreds of students to the standing section wearing black T-shirts reading Place des Victoires.
The Sun King looking down benevolently, even as the sky grew darker and then black, as the cast stuck close to the statue. A huge burst of applause greeting Alexandre as he trotted around the square for his bow. Exiting just as an evil wind from the west, the sort one gets Paris late evenings in June, announced a thunderstorm. And the heavens opened in a torrential downpour. The audience scattering out of the show. Talk about a veritable deluge. Old Louis must have got a kick.
Talk about lucky timing. The gods of light and rain didn’t so much bless Alexandre Mattiussi, as grab him in a loving embrace.
Couldn’t happen to a nicer guy.
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