Behind The Scenes At Thomas Keller’s Per Se

Perched on the top floor of the Deutsche Bank Center in Manhattan’s Columbus Circle, Per Se—helmed by world-renowned chef and TKRG founder Thomas Keller—received a glowing commendation from The New York Times’ Frank Bruni soon after it opened in 2004, collecting countless accolades in the years that followed. Keller’s urban rendition of The French Laundry, the upscale eatery has been awarded three Michelin stars every year since 2006, cementing its reputation as one of New York City’s top spots for fine dining. But in recent years, critics have deemed it out of reach and out of touch, often pointing to its dated decor and eye-watering prices, which include $925 per person for the extended Chef’s Tasting—a cost, some may argue, that only the top one percent can stomach.

Despite generating mixed reviews and battling an unsavory lawsuit filed by a former staffer (which was initially dismissed and ultimately settled), Per Se has managed to maintain a stable of loyal employees, with more than a quarter of its 112-person team having worked at the restaurant for over five years. It’s a noteworthy achievement given the industry’s notoriously high turnover rate, which has averaged 79.6% since 2013, chiefly due to workers fed up with limited upward mobility, poor benefits, and low appreciation.

“When I first started at Per Se, I didn’t imagine I would be here for more than a decade,” says Kimberly Suzuka, who met her husband while working at The French Laundry before transitioning to its East Coast satellite. In 2018, the Culinary Institute of America graduate, who began as Per Se’s lead host and later served as its culinary liaison, was promoted to her current title of guest relations manager—a position made just for her. “When a role is created for you specifically, you don’t take that lightly,” she insists, crediting her professional success to TKRG’s culture of promoting guidance and education.

Executive pastry chef Elaine Smyth—who started her journey at Per Se as a humble chef de partie in 2012—recalls how her predecessor, Elwyn Boyles, would patiently explain every step of each process and push her to ask questions. “I benefitted immensely from his mentorship and his belief in me helped me earn my promotion to pastry sous chef after only three years,” she effuses. In addition, as the two-time winner of TKRG’s experiential scholarship, she was granted the rare opportunity to study cocoa farming in Peru and learn traditional salt raking in France with esteemed chef Olivier Roellinger.

“Working here is like a graduate school for chefs,” says Chad Palagi, who started out as a commis at Per Se in 2013 and quickly rose up the ranks to sous chef. Following the birth of his first child, the Napa Valley native wanted to focus more on his family, choosing to part from the restaurant in 2017. “But I quickly found myself missing the culture of Per Se and the dedication of its staff,” he confesses. So a few years later, he decided to return as Per Se’s chef de cuisine. “The most fulfilling part of my job is mentoring young culinarians,” he enthuses. “Watching them grow from having little experience to becoming skilled professionals—and eventually become chefs in their own right—is truly amazing.”

The restaurant’s nurturing environment has led it to produce a number of rising stars in the culinary world—among them, Jonny Black, former chef de partie, who now runs Chez Noir, a James Beard Award finalist for 2024 Best Restaurant of the Year. There’s also married alums Matt Danzer and Ann Redding, best known for opening the late Uncle Boons and wildly popular Thai Diner in Lower Manhattan. Not to mention Josh Finger and Maggie McConnell, another husband-and-wife duo who met while working in Per Se’s kitchen, whose high-end European tasting concept, Claudine, is set to debut tomorrow in downtown Providence.

At Per Se, the menu changes daily, determined by the season and quality of the products available. With the exception of the restaurant’s three golden offerings—truffles, caviar, and foie gras—no ingredient is ever repeated across a meal. That calls for precise communication between station chefs, who congregate nightly to chew over the next day’s dishes. “We review our lists and also what is available from our farmers and foragers,” Palagi explains. From there, “we develop our compositions, discussing our desired flavor profiles and techniques for each ingredient.”

The restaurant regularly invites its vendors to train the culinary staff—whether it’s introducing them to a different type of truffle, a unique wine, or a new kind of cutlery. “It allows us to come together, learn about the stories behind the ingredients and craftsmanship, and gain a deeper appreciation for the meticulous processes involved in sourcing them,” notes Sandra Bohlsen, Per Se’s general manager since 2019. “It’s a wonderful chance for the team to bond while expanding our knowledge and connection to the products we work with.”

In addition, whenever a new dish debuts, “we always taste it together and share our thoughts,” Smyth reveals, adding that the evening crew will often leave a note for the morning staff detailing anecdotes from the previous night’s service, such as an especially delighted guest. The kitchen team then relays its plan to the dining room staff—a collaborative practice that has “afforded us 21 years of consistency and makes us who we are,” Bohlsen asserts.

The entire Per Se team is driven by Chef Keller’s famously high standards, summed up by two motivational signs hanging in the restaurant’s kitchen: “Sense of Urgency,” aptly placed beneath a clock, and the dictionary definition of “finesse,” posted above the exit—a constant reminder for the staff to maintain refinement and delicacy in their work.

Bohlsen admits the job isn’t always easy. “I’m constantly challenged, stepping outside of my comfort zone, and learning every day,” she divulges, noting that her journey has had its fair share of ups and downs. “But what’s most important is the ability to rise, adjust your crown, and keep moving forward.”