Kolhapuri controversy pushes Prada toward Indian collaboration

Prada is looking to collaborate with artisanal footwear makers in India, the company said on Friday, two weeks after the Italian luxury group sparked controversy by debuting ethnic sandals resembling 12th-century Indian styles.

After runway images from Milan went viral, Prada drew sharp criticism from Indian artisans who handcraft Kolhapuri sandals—named after the historic city of Kolhapur in Maharashtra. In response to the backlash, the brand acknowledged late last month that its open-toe design was directly inspired by traditional Indian footwear.

The controversy drove interest in Kolhapuri sandals, with artisans and sellers viewing the attention as an opportunity to promote the heritage craft and tap into a wave of nationalist pride.

In a statement to Reuters, Prada said it held virtual talks on Friday with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, which represents 3,000 Kolhapuri sandal artisans, to explore potential opportunities for collaboration.

“The next step will be for Prada’s supply chain team to meet a range of artisanal footwear manufacturers,” the company said.

According to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Lorenzo Bertelli—son of Prada’s owners and head of its corporate social responsibility—took part in the discussions.

During the talks, Prada reportedly expressed its intention to launch a limited-edition “Made in India” Kolhapuri-inspired sandal collection in partnership with Indian artisans.

India’s luxury market remains relatively small but is growing steadily, with wealthy consumers investing in designer fashion, high-end cars and luxury timepieces.

Prada does not operate any retail stores in India, and its products are generally available only to affluent consumers who shop overseas.

The sandal controversy dominated social media for several days, sparking criticism and sarcastic memes. Indian politicians, artisans and the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce called for recognition of the country’s cultural contribution to the design.