Milan celebrates artisanal tradition, craftsmanship with Dhruv Kapoor

A return to basics on Milan’s catwalks. On the second day of the womenswear ready-to-wear shows, designers seemed intent on returning to fundamentals, fusing age-old craftsmanship and textile traditions with a decidedly contemporary vision. This shift crosses borders: for Spring/Summer 2026, several houses were heading the same way, reviving crafts such as embroidery, passementerie and textile finishing, among others. As demonstrated, among others, by the Indian designer, Dhruv Kapoor.

Dhruv Kapoor continues to move upmarket. Although denim remained in the form of baggy trousers and oversized jackets, often embellished, the designer has gradually moved away from the streetwear that marked his early success, in favour of more sophisticated creations with a contemporary design.

For the Spring/Summer 2026 season, he returned to his roots, starting from the staples of the Indian wardrobe: the knitted vest, the mid-length flared skirt, boxer shorts, the waistcoat and the quintessential tunic-style shirt, which he reworked with a more cosmopolitan, chic sensibility.

These undergarments were reimagined with new cuts and refined details, ready to step into the spotlight. They weaved together tradition and modernity. Boxer shorts expanded into draped maxi shorts. The waistcoat extended into a strappy mini dress and also became a sleeveless jacket, while skirts flared into corolla or balloon shapes, or fall straight with back slits, embroidered with colourful or shimmering flowers, paired with dark, fitted jackets. Embroidery and prints drew on Indian checked patterns and Jaipur blue pottery.

The shirt was the centrepiece of the collection, realised in myriad constructions. It appeared as a loose top with a pointed collar but no buttons. It flares and billows like a parachute, transforming into a decidedly chic mini dress. It was cut in airy seersucker into blouson-style tops. Worn as a long shirt, it was adorned with Indian motifs embroidered on one side. Green, pink, blue, and red — the colours burst forth. For a more ethnic touch, the models trod the sienna-coloured sand catwalk barefoot, their feet tattooed with henna.